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"Make it look good": An Architectural Assignment

"Make it Look Good": An Architectural Assignment

When I first picked up a camera, I thought it would be incredibly easy to get great results. After all, we are inundated with compelling images, commercial and otherwise, everywhere we look and we tend to take it for granted that they just happen that way. For a while, I thought I was right. Really, I was just lucky, and used Velvia. If it weren’t for my early “successes,” I doubt I would have given my camera, and photography in general, much further attention.

My realization came with black and white (landscape) photography, where the tones present in the developed film are rarely where the photographer wants them to be in the final print. I was so disheartened by what I got from my first few B+W sheets, I nearly gave it up completely. Then, I opened up Ansel Adams’ “The Print” and found a “before” shot that looked much like what I was getting. If Adams wasn’t getting it right out of the camera, how the heck should I? Later, I found the same sort of thing in Bruce Barnbaum’s “The Art of Photography.” So, my approach to photography ever since has been: get it close, and try not to lose anything on the film/chip.

Without a doubt, I would not be where I am today, photographically, if it weren’t for my understanding that photographs rarely come out looking “perfect,” or the way I envision them. So long as I have all the tonal information I want, I’m happy. The (digital) darkroom is as important as the film I choose and the time I shoot. This brings me to the actual photograph for discussion:

Were it not for my experiences with black and white, it probably would have gone in the trash, and I would have been in a tough situation. I had other shots, but this one, at least in my head, had the most potential! As it was, I didn’t even hesitate. I scanned it, and set to work… and there was a lot of it. My initial plan was to photograph the building in evening side light and catch the trees out front in full leaf. But, seeing that the sun would be totally blocked by sky scrapers across the street, I decided on a night shot. Not only would this create a moody atmosphere, it would also play down the dull leafless trees that are the norm in April, when the client needed the shot. I needed something else though, something that would instantly attract attention like a good commercial image should. The solution: Fuji T64, perfect for punchy midnight blue hues when used in natural waning light.  I was also lucky that there were clounds that evening to give some density to the sky.              

Usually, the client is looking for something specific when they hire a photographer,but in this situation, I had free reign. I had NEVER used tungsten film before, and did not know exactly what to expect. Caveat #1: I certainly do not recommend this approach to anyone shooting anything important. The more you know and can control in a shoot, the better it will be. But like I said, there were no stipulations, and I had other shots. Caveat #2: always challenge yourself and experiment, good things happen.

The battle plan:

 The color was pretty much spot on. The biggest hurdle would be cloning and cleaning. While the building certainly has potential, there is a lot of garbage that distracts. The building, in the heart of downtown Edmonton, had been derelict for a number of years, and the client moving in wanted to revitalize it. 

The result after many hours of editing:

At this point, the client is pleased, and the large inkjet print is radiant. The job, however, is not complete.

A new owner, means  new signage for the building.  Unfortunately, it isn't ready in time for the shoot, but I indicated that I could add it in digitally.  With three point sources of light, it wouldn't be an easy task to make it look realistic.

Step 1: clone out the old sign.  I thought it would be easy, but lining up the bricks made it more difficult.

Step 2: insert logo graphic (this is were layers play a huge role). Prior to this I had been working directly on the image, saving copies as I go.  Text and logo are inserted as two separate layers.  
Step 3: create shadows and "sign" look.  Each shadow was created as an independent layer to get the precise interaction for all three light sources. 
 
Step 4: The logo needs to be lit from beneath.  Just dodging and burning.

Pretty good, in fact, the client liked it so much, that they decided to have me create a new logo for them as well.  Everything was great, until it got sent to the (offset) printer.  

What I learned, and what I didn't know about commercial printing

I learned quite a lot with this project.  Never before had I used this kind of film, cleaned an image so heavily, and worked with layer properties so extensively, but reproducing this image (~15,000 copies) would be up to the commercial printing press contracted by the client.  I knew what my inkjet was capabale of, but did not know what the offset printer could handle.  Fortunately, Adobe Photoshop has a handy tool built right in for proofing offset pinters:

View-->Proof-->Working CMYK + Gamut Warning  

YIKES! As you can see, the results are startling. What about a high volume Chromira or Lightjet?  Same thing.  No matter where I took the image, those shades of blue could not be reproduced.  While the commercial image looked OK (though green shifted) it had lost the impact of the original.  Luckily, because of the heavy blue color cast created by the T64 film, few people would know what it "should" look like, anyway.   

Aaron Falkenberg

Edmonton

December2007

www.aaronfalkenberg.com

by Aaron Falkenberg on December 2, 2007, 12:56 pm Tags:

Comments:

by Patricia A. Minicucci, Mon December 03, 2007, 09:55:17
Terrific write-up, Aaron. I got a good laugh out of the line:

"Really, I was just lucky, and used Velvia."

Not sure why you are reluctant to use (and keep) editing layers. It makes re-purposing images very easy since you can always go back to bedrock if you have to.

CS3's clone source tool, with overlay, would have made lining up the brick geometry very easy. And Vanishing Point cloning would do the same if you have to deal with perspective changes instead of a flat surface.

Finally, note that PS' gamut warning is very insensitive to the degree of change. Off by a one degree will fill your screen with gray. I think several of the pixel gurus argue that you should not use it because it is both disheartening and relatively inaccurate. Better to use your eyes (as you have done). That said, I am currently doing a series of CMYK conversions and they are dispiriting.
by Javier Campos, Mon December 03, 2007, 10:47:01 , modified December 03, 2007, 10:49:27
I tend to use gamut warning for prints, and just make a hue or saturation adjustment for just that/those color(s) with a very limited range. As you say Pat, the difference might be very slight, so the "fix" doesn't really change the scene at all... but it's just better to make sure and fix it as much as possible (I don't mind some single group of pixels on a not important part of the image but...). I can trust -my- printer if I know ho w it works, but I don't typically print any work assignment (not talking about Photography here, but graphicdesign... but the fact remains) on my own printer, for which I know its limits.

I've had several terrible experiences out of -not- using the gamut warning, and on rushed projects for which we didn't have time for a reprint. Not that final customers are -that- picky usually, but I am, and I hate spending a lot of (my, my customers', whoever's) money in prints to watch them look horrible at the end. Last one of those prints was a CD cover, which lost basically all contrast in the lowest range (and it was a dark blue for the most part of it)... had I used the Gamut Warning I could have foreseen it and fix it accordingly.

Anyway, this was a great workflow tutorial Aaron... as Pat says, some things could have been done easier, but the result is just fine. Thanks for writing it up!
by Aaron Falkenberg, Mon December 03, 2007, 11:42:26
Pat, I just got CS3, (had plain old CS at the time) so I will look into "clone source with overly," for sure. The PS CMYK was really just for impact. I had profiles for the Chromira and Lightjet printers, (but not the offset printer) and it was still off the charts. I did a test print on the Chromira, and it came off looking just like the proof - kind of a dark grey/blue, but nowhere near the shift of the offset printer.

Javier, how do you "fix" it if the printer won't print hues even close to the ones you want?

Cheers,
Aaron
by Patricia A. Minicucci, Mon December 03, 2007, 11:44:18
Javier: I'd never argue against proper soft-proofing, which would show color and contrast issues. Just that dang gamut warning add-on.
by Javier Campos, Mon December 03, 2007, 12:00:18
Aaron: Short anwer, I don't. Long answer: I haven't had this problem for photographs before... just graphic design (as stated) so I usually have enough room for playing with colors when the printer will just not make it "that way"... I can always find "a different way" of doing the same.

I haven't done any serious photography prints, just simple 10x15 photos to show family and friends, so I wouldn't know... my guess is, any decent printer, although out of the accepted gamut, can show a wide range of colors, so the hue, saturation, or lightness (whatever changes the result less) fix is usually pretty slight and doesn't change the final scene even a bit.

I also don't care about gamut warnings on plain colors... I just fix the out-of-gamut warns on gradients (or softened edges), which are the ones which really really get affected on an "out-of-gamut" print (turning gradients into plain colors or even "posterizing" them at some limits). The printer making a plain color "approximate" on doesn't bother me a lot... usually that "approximate color", is approximate enough so that it passes unnoticed.

This is just talking about "real-life" situations, and graphic design (i.e., not directly photography... but overall printing). Absolute correctness is a whole different story and might require a re-thinking on the whole thing again and a whole different process, I figure.

Pat: yeah, I know... I just thought it was useful. There are probably better methods though, but my monitor is far from being perfect (it's a cheap BenQ TFT monitor), and having a visual tip on where the whole thing is failing definitely helps.

So far (and once again, not talking about photography specifically, but graphic design), I've had good overall print results with this uncalibrated and cheap monitor, just using the gamut warning thing to realize where the thing might absolutely fall.

Usually, it's also good clue on where you are not viewing enough stuff on an uncalibrated monitor (at least to me: I find that the lack of proper and exact calibration becomes extreme at the edges of saturation on some hues... precisely what happens with gamut warns).

I'm far from making a rule here, and just telling my experience with the thing and some assignments... your mileage may vary (and it'll more than probably do).

Best regards!
by Joseph w Baker, Wed December 12, 2007, 12:05:38
I loved the very first sentince,incredibly easy to get great results,(in My Dreams)
as in your dreams.and everyone else who ever took a photo.
Now i kinda look for the challange;isn,t it strange?

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